Friday, July 30, 2010
The making of Lucite beads with light reflecting effects like moonstone, cat's eye and others
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New York Times 1941 - Richelieu Patent Controversy and Discoveries

March 2009: I recently found an article from the NY Times in 1941 with some amazing information about Joseph H Meyer Bros (who made Richelieu jewelry) and a patent that was awarded to them describing the manufacture of plastic beads that have a cats eye effect. 

This sent me off on a journey of research that has uncovered some interesting info about the company, including that at about this time, they filed a number of design patents!    The patents are attributed to Maximilian C Meyer. Neither the Joseph H Meyer Bros company, nor Richelieu are mentioned at all in the text of the patents.  However in the article, Maximilian is named as the President of the company at that time, and the lawyers mentioned in the article,  as representing the company, are the same ones listed on the patents.    This, given that the patents also have elements that fit within what the company was producing at the time, that the location is the same, and that there are earlier patents where Max has patents that are assigned to the Jos H Meyer co, lead me to feel confident that these patents are ones that were in fact developed by the company.     Update 3/24/09 - ran across an ad on a wonderful reference website for vintage jewelry that shows some items that match the patents!  yoohoo - further confirmation!  Here is a link: http://www.morninggloryantiques.com/JewelChatAd2kz.html - scroll down to see the Richelieu Satinore Jewelry 1946 ad. 

Here are some of the highlights of the article.   The research details that I have found based on the article will be added to this page as I get them organized: 

The article is titled "Weigh New Patent on Lucite Jewelry" , with a sub head that the Cohn & Rosenberger company may challenge it. 

  • The patent is described as one for plastic jewelry made of lucite, granted to Maximilian C Meyer, president of Joseph H Meyer Brothers on May 6, 1941
  • It describes that patent as being for a process that makes beads with the effects of simulated moonstone, cat's eye, star sapphire and similar effects, and declares that these types of jewelry are among the leading costume jewelry items.
  • It mentions that Coro has also been making and selling necklaces of the lucite material and that they may challenge the patent.
  • It says that both companies purchase the lucite material from DuPont (E. I. du Pont de Nemours Company, Inc)
  • A DuPont representative says that they do provide the lucite and operate under a patent of the Meyer organization acquired 14 years prior covering the incorporation of faceted pigment into plastic material.

 


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Pop Beads
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The Design Patents
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The Design Patents

->>  click here to see all the design patents that I have found so far <<-

I have been able to confirm that the patents were actually Richelieu patents having found the items in a couple of ads.  I recently acquired this 1942 ad where most of the items match the patents.  The ad is also marked at the bottom as "design patent pending", which also matches the dates correctly with the patents.

click the ad for a larger view

and here I've matched up the patents with the item in the ad

       

     


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Richelieu Trademarks
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March 2009:  Here are the trademarks that I have found so far

Aris - first used January 1941

Iris - first used 1938

Le Cultra - first used March 15 1949

Ovelles - trademarked to Victoria Creations - first used January 1959 

Phoenix - first used 1938

Richelieu - first used April 15, 1911

Richelieu - trademarked to Victoria Creations - first used April 15, 1911

Ro-May - first used 'about" March 1950 

Satinore - first used May 1939

Satinore - first used May 3939

Suspense - trademarked to Lisner-Richelieu - first used July 27, 1977

Virgo - first used 1938

XXX - first used Oct 1905


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The 1941 patent - making lucite beads
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Making Lucite Beads - the Patent

The patent described in the NY Times article mentioned above that was issued May 6, 1941 to Maximilian C Meyer is patent #2241365.     

The introduction to the patent states that it is a method of "forming objects...from plastics containing oriented faceted light reflecting particles....It is an object of my invention to obtain ornamental objects...which under light have a cat's eye effect"

Further into the patent it says "..the novel effects or orienting faceted light reflecting media such as pearl essence in a plastic body  in order to obtain a lustrous sheen effect ..is set forth in (other patents)"

It mentions that the process that he is patenting can be used with a number of different plastics, and that they need to be at least translucent, meaning translucent or transparent.   Then as a specific example, Lucite is described as giving extremely desirable results. 

Getting into the nitty gritty details, he describes that he prefers to use Pearl essence derived from fish scales as the light reflecting particles inside the plastic, but that other things may be used such as metallic faceted particles, faceted pigments or light reflecting media with faceted surfaces generally.   Generally they are in the form of flat plates, crystals and the like. 

He describes that color may be added by any suitable method, but he prefers to employ a dye, since a dye does not impair the light transmitting properties of the plastic. 

My understanding of the basic process is that the pearl essence is added to the liquid plastic in the form of paste, to distribute it, then it is put in a mold in the shape of a cylinder.  The long thin particles, line up lengthwise in the rod of plastic that is made.  Then a machine is used to grind away parts of the rod until  you have spheres.   It also says that it is critical that the outermost layer be comletely removed, otherwise the result is inferior. 

Here is a drawing from the patent showing how the beads are "cut" from the rod by slowly grinding away the shape. It also shows how the little light reflecting pieces line up and then how the light effects result once the items are cut. 

 


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Grading Richelieu Simulated Pearls
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Grading Simulated Pearls - ads from 1924

Somewhere in my Google travels (an old blog entry I think), I saw something where someone had found a strand of Richelieu simulated pearls that were marked with "PO".   They wondered what the PO was for.   It stuck in my head and today while researching Richelieu, I ran across some newspaper ads from 1924 which describe that PO is one of the quality levels or grades that they sold.  Richelieu had 7 different grades.  Each at a different price point and advertised as being comparable to pearls from different parts of the world.  The grades were "XXX", "A", "B", "C", "PO", "M" and "XL".    

It is interesting that the ad from March 1924 lists 6 different grades, but in May, they mention 7, adding the "XL"  grade and noting that it is a "new achievement of our research staff, lighter in weight and solid right through"  (ed update 3/24/09: found a picture of an ad in a jewelry reference book that lists the items in that particular ad as quality "J" - so yet another grade level - there was no date listed for the ad)

Both ads are shown here for reference and describe the grades.      For info "XXX" is a trademark of the Joseph H Meyer Bros Company - makers of the Richelieu pearls and the trademark is listed in the US trademark listings, as being used as early as 1905.    The earliest Richelieu trademark currently shown in the US trademark listings shows that it was first used in 1911.  Unknown why there is a discepancy there.  Was "XXX" used for something else in the Joseph Meyer Bros line?  another mystery! 

         

 

 

 


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Richelieu "Grades" over the years
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March 2009: After discovering the 1924 ads shown in the article below, I began to look further at Richelieu ads looking for more information on their grading system.  It appears that throughout the years, they continued this idea of "grading" their pearls, so I've developed a summary of the ones I've found.  I will add to it as I find more...

Grade 'XXX'
1924 price:  $50-$300
1949 ad price: $35,  the 1949 ad describes as having "fine gold filigree clasp"
in both ads it is listed as the highest price item

Grade "A"
1924 price:  $35-$150
1949 ad price $2 - $5 - it is interesting that in 1924, this looks like the second highest grade, while in 1949, it is listed as the lowest grade of the ones shown.  1949 ad states "with fine filigree clasp"

Grade "B"
1924 price: $20-$100

Grade "C"
1924 price: $15-$35

Grade "PO"
1924 price: $10-$20

Grade "M"
1924 price: $5-$10

Grade "XL"
unknown price

Grade "R"
1949 price: $5-$10 - ad states with "sterling filigree clasp"

Grade "T"
1949 price: $7.50-$15 - ad states with "sterling filigree clasp"

Grade "Regent"
1949 price $3-$7.50 - ad states with "sterling filigree clasp"

Grade "Casino"
1949 price $10-$30 - ad states with "fine gold filigree clasp"

Grade "Ultra"
1949 price $15-$45 - ad states with "fine gold filigree clasp"

Grade "Magnific"
1949 price $20-$60 - ad states with "fine gold filigree clasp"

Grade "Diamond Savoy"
1949 price $25 - ad states with "fine diamond clasp"

 

 The 1949 ad - click for larger view

 


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Ivoralina
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I found this pair of earrings marked "Ivoralina by Richelieu".  

I didn't find a darn thing about Ivoralina anywhere, so I thought I'd check into the different Richelieu trademarks, since most of the ones on RCJ show handwriting type marks, rather then the block text on this one. 

Here's what I found: 

The block letter version was registered October 3, 1989 by VICTORIA CREATIONS, INC. CORPORATION RHODE ISLAND 30 JEFFERSON PARK ROAD WARWICK RHODE ISLAND 02888.  It is described as first used in 1911 although I believe that reference is in general for the word name Richelieu. 

And while it doesn't match the card exactly, it does seem to match the mark on the back of the earrings

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The one above was registered in 1947 by (REGISTRANT) JOSEPH H. MEYER BROS. CORPORATION NEW YORK 220 TWENTY-FIFTH STREET BROOKLYN NEW YORK, also described as first used 1911

(LAST LISTED OWNER) VICTORIA CREATIONS, INC. CORPORATION ASSIGNEE OF RHODE ISLAND 30 JEFFERSON PARK ROAD WARWICK RHODE ISLAND 02888

second renewal April 26, 1989,  mark listed as "live"

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This one was registered March 16, 1943 to (REGISTRANT) JOSEPH H. MEYER BROS. CORPORATION NEW YORK 220 TWENTY-FIFTH STREET BROOKLYN NEW YORK  (LAST LISTED OWNER) Victoria Creations, Inc. CORPORATION RHODE ISLAND Warwick RHODE ISLAND also described as first used 1911

Second Renewal date says March 16 1983 but the mark is now listed as "dead" and "cancelled"

 

 

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